Sunday, May 1, 2011

Garment making techniques

If you aren't or haven't been a garment maker you will maybe not understand the idea without seeing what I did. This is an applique shape with a freezer paper shape ironed onto the back of the applique fabric. I then added a lining or facing to the other side. I stitched around the applique shape with very small stitches. Like 1.0 or 18 stitches per inch. This makes a better seam. After taking the freezer paper shape off of the stitched piece I then trim the shape seam allowance down to about 1/8 of and inch. Then I layer or take the lining fabric and cut back even smaller. It is called Grading the Seam. It makes the lining pull to the back better for your shape. It was used a lot in collar making on shirts and blouses in garment making.

This is the stitching around the shape. As you can see the peaks and valleys are quite sharp so the lining or facing is the best way to catch all the threads so they don't fray out.

You can see the small stitches so that the threads are captured and not going to fray. Hopefully this takes some of the fear out of very sharp peaks and valleys in stitching. The seam will be graded on this also and then the lining will be trimmed from the back and the turning will happen. Pressing the lining after the turning will make the shape ready to be appliqued down.
Any questions email me or leave a comment and I will try and answer questions.

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